Should I buy wireless headphones?

Well… no.

 

I really wanted to have wireless headphones for running and gym visits, so I got myself a pair of Skull Candy SMOKIN’ BUDS 2 WIRELESS. Those headphones sound good enough for exercise – on par with in-ear headphones I used so far (Sony from Xperia Z and Z3 and Skull Candy buds).

But I’m not happy with the purchase. Here’s why:

  • The wireless headphones need charging. I’ve already run out of power once in the gym. And even if you have power the headphones tell you they need  charging soon by… beeping. Beep… beep… beep… every few seconds. Try to concentrate with that in your ears.
  • The headphones are not wireless. There’s no wire to connect to the phone, but there’s quite a lot of wire connecting the in-ear buds. And this wire is more annoying that a standard cable, because it’s not attached to a fixed point, so it bounces around neck. And it has a sizeable bit of plastic in the middle. Skull Candy tried to patch this by adding a quite heavy rubbery neck bundle. Which stills bounces a bit and is no less irritating.
  • Android 6 cannot reliable handle BT audio. I’m using BT audio in my car, with Sony SRS-X55 speaker and with those headphones. Switching between Sony speaker, car and SB2 sometimes confuses Android. I had to go to BT settings to remove the connection and reconnect the phone again to all those devices several times. It doesn’t always help – I had to restart my phone three times as well. Which is not what I want to be doing in gym’s changing room!
  • BT range is good in theory, but seems to have gaps. Maybe my phone (Xperia z3) has a directional antenna or maybe it’s the headphones. I can leave the phone 3 to 5 meters from me and the sound is working well, but as soon as I slip the phone into my pocket the sounds starts to break. Not much, but I’m getting very short breaks every few steps – just like my body is blocking the signal.

Would I buy different headphones instead of SB2? No. The whole approach is broken and the whole ecosystem needs updating. I’ll try again in 3 years.

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Setting up LBC podcast in BeyondPod

LBC offers paid podcasts and BeyondPod supports authentication, but not the one http://lbc.audioagain.com/ uses. The typical link to feed advertised on the website looks like this:

http://lbc.audioagain.com/podcast_feed.php?channel=subjames

But there’s also a “hidden” link that accepts HTTP auth:

http://lbc.audioagain.com/podcast.php?channel=subjames

And the second one works well in BeyondPod.

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Looping the loop and defying the ground… in an RC Aircraft over Essex

I’m currently learning to fly Remote Controlled Airplane. I’ve joined <a href=”http://www.thurrockmfc.co.uk”>Thurrock Model Flying Club</a> – a bunch of great, helpful guys!

I had few lessons with on E-flite Apprentice S 15e (and a bit more on a simulator – PhoenixRC 5). Here is my plane:

 

 

And here are few videos from GoPro attached to its underbelly:

 
(see me doing loops 5:20 – 5:45!)

Flying is great! :)

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My First Quadcopter Build – Parts and Tools Checklist

 

 

Let’s start with something exciting – the final result! Say hallo to Bandit the Quad!DSC_1750

 

Building the Bandit was a lot of fun, but also a bit of frustration when I kept discovering I needed more things. Below you will find my final checklist.

 

Bill of materials

  • Frame. I used Emax 250 Nighthawk Pro Frame made from carbon fibre. 250 is a size class. It is supposed to mean that the distance between opposite motors is 250mm, but in reality the size is 280mm. Close enough I suppose. This size is comfortable to build and not scary to flight.
  • Motors. I used MT2204 2300KV outrunners. Two of them with clockwise nuts and two with counter-clockwise, which should keep the propellers steady.
  • Flight controller (FC). I used CC3D – small, open source based controller. It is inexpensive and has a very decent software helping to set it up.
  • Electronic Speed Controller (ESC). I used Emax 12A. The brushless motors require alternating inputs on three wires to spin. ESC is a component that translates PWM impulses from the flight controller to inputs for a motor. Those are smarter than they look – they are microcontroller based and their software can be updated. Mine use SimonK firmware, which seems to be a standard in this class of quads. Mine ESC have BEC (Battery Elimination Circuit), which provides power to the Flight Controller.
  • Propellers. I used 6×3 carbon fiber props. I do not like them – they look cheap and have scratched edges straight out of the box. Also the carbon fibre is very tough, so in case of unavoidable crash the motor may be hurt more that with a plastic prop which would just snap. On the other hand some say the carbon fiber props give less vibrations. I’ll probably will be changing them.
  • Radio transmitter (TX). I used Spektrum DX5e because I happened to have one. I like it – it feels good in hand and Spektrum is recognized as a good quality brand of RC.
  • Radio receiver (RX). This is a crucial component – it needs to work well with your transmitter and with the flight controller. I opted for Spektrum AR610 – one of the simplest and cheapest in line. It uses PWM communication with the controller, which is fine for now.
  • Power Distribution Board (PDB). In Quadcopters there are two almost separate set of electric systems: low current signals (RC-FC-ESC) and high current power to motors via ESC. PDB helps with the latter. You may use PDB or you can make the harness using wires (14AWG should be enough). PDB leaves exposed contacts which may lead to short-circuits, but it is easier to assemble than the harness. You choose.
  • Battery plug. I own few batteries with XT60 plugs, so I used the same in my quad. I bought one already soldered to a piece of 14AWG wire.
  • 14AWG wires to connect the battery plug with PDB.
  • Battery. I used 2100MAh 3S LiPo from DJI Phantom. Most people recommend smaller and lighter ones around 1300MAh 3S.
  • LiPo Battery charger. Self explanatory
  • Mini USB cable. The flight controller needs to be set up from a computer. CC3D uses mini usb, not micro as phones do.
  • Battery straps. You need to fix the battery to the quad somehow. I used two velcro straps.
  • Heat Shrink. There’s quite a lot of things to solder and isolate. Heat shrink is much safer and looks better than isolation tape.
  • Cable ties. There are a lot of wires in the finished quadcopter and the frame offers no help in hiding them. My receiver does not offer any mounting holes, so I used the cable tie to fix it as well.  I used few of 100x2mm and some of 150x3mm cable ties.
  • LiPo Charging bag. Rarely the LiPo batteries can cause violent fires. LiPo charging bags contains the most of the flames. Grab a bag, they are worth it.
  • Crocodile clips (see tips and tricks)

 

Tools

  • Soldering iron and solder. You will need to solder the motors, ESC, PDB/harness and a battery plug. I used 30W iron and I felt it was to small for the power cables.
  • Helping hand/3rd hand tool – you want the wires as short as possible, which means the soldering is harder than usual. Without the helping hand tool from Maplin I would be sitting here until next Christmas.
  • Heat gun. I didn’t feel using a cigarette lighter would be good for the machine. Heat gun is the cleanest way to shrink the shrink wrap. Go PRO and buy one!
  • Cable cutters
  • Screwdrivers
  • Hex keys
  • Small spanners for the frame and propeller nuts. I used pliers instead.
  • Computer with internet access.
  • Multimeter – to check for the soldering work before connecting a real battery.

 

Tips and Tricks

  • ECS and motors have three wires with no information how to connect them. I soldered the middle wires together and then connected the remaining ones using crocodile clips in a random order. This allowed me to check the rotation direction of the motors before committing the proper joint. I happened to choose wrong order on 3 motors! You will check the rotation direction while setting up the machine in Open Pilot software.
  • It is extremely easy to scratch the carbon fibre with any sharp tools. I have made circles around few bolts where I used pliers instead of a correct spanner.
  • You can get a pack of 75 cable ties in three sizes for a £1 in Poundland. You want to have different sizes, so you would spend £5 in B&Q and £9 in Maplin to get them. And you will end up with many unused ties.
  • If you haven’t soldered the 14awg wires before practice it on a side before starting the real thing. I found this to be the hardest part.
  • Remember you put the shrink wrap before soldering ;)

 

The build took me two evenings after I have gathered all parts.

 

And now it is time to fly!

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Probably the best sandwich in the world!

Yesterday I have invented the best sandwich in the world! Some will call it gourmet!

Here is the recipe:

  1. Toast two pieces of Warburtons medium white bread (or similar – any good white toast should be ok).
  2. Spread a medium layer of Red Onion Chutney (I recommend English Provender Co.) on one piece of toast. Let it sink in a bit.
  3. Pour some Red Hot Buffalo Chicken Wings Sauce (I recommend Frank’s) on the other piece of bread.
  4. Cover the onion chutney with a medium slice of fresh, mild gouda cheese.
  5. Put a think slice of a thick Chorizo sausage in the middle.
  6. Put generous slices of sweet tomato.
  7. Add two slices of strong, white onion.
  8. Put few cucumber slices on top of the onion. Add salt.
  9. Close the sandwich. Cut and consume immediately!

I have no photo of this exquisite dish, because the sandwich disappears before I manage to find a camera. Try it!

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My first half-marathon trial

Few weeks back I made a decision to complete a half-marathon this year. I set up myself a realistic goal of completing the distance of 13.1 miles (21 km) in less than 3h. For regular runners it may not seem fast, but for an obese IT pro guy it is.

Yesterday I decided to do a trial run to see how it feels. I have never before tried to keep required pace for more than 9.5 miles. And… I succeeded!

Here are few thoughts I had on my way:
* good podcast helps, but it should not be anything important. I do not really remember last 40 min of what I heard.
* using food supplements and sugary drinks helps. The body does not refuse to go further when filled with carbohydrates. In the past I tried walking just on a water and my body just stopped moving along the way.
* good socks matter. I was stupid to wear a pair of this socks and my right foot hurts today! My feet started to hurt about halfway. I knew that they will hurt a lot when I finish, but I was able to tell myself to deal with it. Don’t be sissy, push it!
* I kept controlling time all the way. Endomondo help by saying updates every mile. Calculating the remaining distance, checking required pace and estimated arrival time helped to take my mind of the walk itself, which I found quite helpful.
* At 2h15min I have made less that 10 miles which caused me to panic a bit. I had to make a decision – move slowly and miss my 3h target (with option to beat it in the next attept) or push more to make it. I decided to push and my 12th mile was fastest of them all with time 11m1sec!
* London is a multicultural, but quite segregated place. It’s fascinating how quickly it changes.
** I’ve started in quite traditional olde english area
** I quickly moved to a rural park
** Next area was inhabited mostly by Africans
** Then followed a patch of multicultural rich people with few Bentleys on driveways
** A mile down the route Asian and Middle East communities dominated the view – with Mosques, Arabic and Hindu centres
** Last bit of the way was “new urban” with people of all origins, but without much traditional look of any kind

See more details about my route on endomondo site:

And one more interesting view showing time of each mile I walked:

Btw: in September I will doing the half marathon in support of the Shine Walk to support Cancer Research UK. I’m collecting money to support their hard work and so far I got £197 out of my £250 target.

Please support me if you can!

Big thank you to those who support me!

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How to start flying quadcopters

It has been almost six weeks since I started flying quadcopters (see early results here: ). There’s a lot I learned so far:
* it’s physics baby! bringing the controller stick back does not slow down/stop the machine – it changes the force generated by propellers, so the quadcoper will keep moving for a while and ultimately it will accelerate.
* using cheaper and smaller quadcoper helps. Risking crashing $500 isn’t a nice feeling. Nor it the feeling that you can hurt someone.
* flying quadcopters is harder than driving cars.
* it’s worth joining a club – for guidance and insurance
* buying a lot of spare parts make the flying more interesting. Having 4 batteries gives you enough time to have some fun and having spare propellers mitigate the fear of crashing
* it’s addictive, it’s fun
* you will crash

I highly recommend a Hubsan X4. It’s relatively easy to fly and very durable. Mine has survived tens of crashes and other abuse. The set of propellers costs 1.5 GBP and you can get spare batteries for around 3GBP. And it looks really nice ;)

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