WebEx error on Windows 10 – solved!

After Windows 10 update of September, 2nd the WebEx stopped working – it is displaying following message: “Invalid input or system error. Please try again or contact your site administrator.”


Bad news:

WebEx ignores the problem as WebEx is not compatible with Windows 10 (in compatibility matrices and words of tech support).


Good news:

There are two workarounds!

  1. Use IETab in Chrome. When you connect to the WebEx from inside IETab it will reinstall the plugin and then connect correctly!
  2. Use WebEx productivity tools to start new meetings or connect to ones you were invited do. Unfortunately this won’t work for meetings to which the invitation was forwarded for you – you must be on original list.


I’ll stay with IETab.


Looping the loop and defying the ground… in an RC Aircraft over Essex

I’m currently learning to fly Remote Controlled Airplane. I’ve joined <a href=”http://www.thurrockmfc.co.uk”>Thurrock Model Flying Club</a> – a bunch of great, helpful guys!

I had few lessons with on E-flite Apprentice S 15e (and a bit more on a simulator – PhoenixRC 5). Here is my plane:



And here are few videos from GoPro attached to its underbelly:

(see me doing loops 5:20 – 5:45!)

Flying is great! :)


FPV 250 racing quadcopter – first tests

Last weekend I’ve added FPV camera and transmitter to my quadcopter. I’ve used FatShark 600TVL camera, ImmersionRC transmitter, minimosd OSD module (flashed for cc3d), FatShark power regulator and a cheap FPV camera mount I got from ebay:

The camera mount requires two servos, which can be used to provide stabilization and view “forward” even when the copter is in deep tilt. CC3D flight controller can use those two servos – see “Gimbal” tab in OpenPilot GCS (ground station).

The build itself was a huge challenge:
* the camera does not fit the mount – I needed to cut the holder and drill a hole for a signal cable.
* the camera mount is designed to point forward. I hoped to hide the camera inside the frame so it won’t get hurt during a crash, but that was not possible – I ended up mounting the camera sticking out a lot.
* there are no mounting holes or slots for transmitter or power regulator, so I tied them with cable ties. They stay in place, but are not rock solid.
* all cables are too long, but I did not have spare plugs, so I could not cut and redo them. All the cables and wires look messy

The result can be seen here:

and here:

And here is a video showing the first fligh attempts:

And a longer, uncut version showing a lot of mistakes. It’s not easy to judge altitude with such wide angle lens, so I had few close calls with a ground.


RC Quadcopter Flying in Romford, Hornchurch, Havering, West Essex, Thurrock, Harold Hill, Upminster or around?

If you are flying or want to start flying in above areas please contact me. I’m happy to meet and fly! FPV, racing quadcopters, aerial photography or drones – let’s do it!

I’m looking for pilots in Romford, Hornchurch, Havering, West Essex, Thurrock, Harold Hill, Upminster, Gallows Corner, Gidea Park for meetups.

Note: This post is intentionally full of keywords, so you can find it in google.


My First Quadcopter Build – Parts and Tools Checklist



Let’s start with something exciting – the final result! Say hallo to Bandit the Quad!DSC_1750


Building the Bandit was a lot of fun, but also a bit of frustration when I kept discovering I needed more things. Below you will find my final checklist.


Bill of materials

  • Frame. I used Emax 250 Nighthawk Pro Frame made from carbon fibre. 250 is a size class. It is supposed to mean that the distance between opposite motors is 250mm, but in reality the size is 280mm. Close enough I suppose. This size is comfortable to build and not scary to flight.
  • Motors. I used MT2204 2300KV outrunners. Two of them with clockwise nuts and two with counter-clockwise, which should keep the propellers steady.
  • Flight controller (FC). I used CC3D – small, open source based controller. It is inexpensive and has a very decent software helping to set it up.
  • Electronic Speed Controller (ESC). I used Emax 12A. The brushless motors require alternating inputs on three wires to spin. ESC is a component that translates PWM impulses from the flight controller to inputs for a motor. Those are smarter than they look – they are microcontroller based and their software can be updated. Mine use SimonK firmware, which seems to be a standard in this class of quads. Mine ESC have BEC (Battery Elimination Circuit), which provides power to the Flight Controller.
  • Propellers. I used 6×3 carbon fiber props. I do not like them – they look cheap and have scratched edges straight out of the box. Also the carbon fibre is very tough, so in case of unavoidable crash the motor may be hurt more that with a plastic prop which would just snap. On the other hand some say the carbon fiber props give less vibrations. I’ll probably will be changing them.
  • Radio transmitter (TX). I used Spektrum DX5e because I happened to have one. I like it – it feels good in hand and Spektrum is recognized as a good quality brand of RC.
  • Radio receiver (RX). This is a crucial component – it needs to work well with your transmitter and with the flight controller. I opted for Spektrum AR610 – one of the simplest and cheapest in line. It uses PWM communication with the controller, which is fine for now.
  • Power Distribution Board (PDB). In Quadcopters there are two almost separate set of electric systems: low current signals (RC-FC-ESC) and high current power to motors via ESC. PDB helps with the latter. You may use PDB or you can make the harness using wires (14AWG should be enough). PDB leaves exposed contacts which may lead to short-circuits, but it is easier to assemble than the harness. You choose.
  • Battery plug. I own few batteries with XT60 plugs, so I used the same in my quad. I bought one already soldered to a piece of 14AWG wire.
  • 14AWG wires to connect the battery plug with PDB.
  • Battery. I used 2100MAh 3S LiPo from DJI Phantom. Most people recommend smaller and lighter ones around 1300MAh 3S.
  • LiPo Battery charger. Self explanatory
  • Mini USB cable. The flight controller needs to be set up from a computer. CC3D uses mini usb, not micro as phones do.
  • Battery straps. You need to fix the battery to the quad somehow. I used two velcro straps.
  • Heat Shrink. There’s quite a lot of things to solder and isolate. Heat shrink is much safer and looks better than isolation tape.
  • Cable ties. There are a lot of wires in the finished quadcopter and the frame offers no help in hiding them. My receiver does not offer any mounting holes, so I used the cable tie to fix it as well.  I used few of 100x2mm and some of 150x3mm cable ties.
  • LiPo Charging bag. Rarely the LiPo batteries can cause violent fires. LiPo charging bags contains the most of the flames. Grab a bag, they are worth it.
  • Crocodile clips (see tips and tricks)



  • Soldering iron and solder. You will need to solder the motors, ESC, PDB/harness and a battery plug. I used 30W iron and I felt it was to small for the power cables.
  • Helping hand/3rd hand tool – you want the wires as short as possible, which means the soldering is harder than usual. Without the helping hand tool from Maplin I would be sitting here until next Christmas.
  • Heat gun. I didn’t feel using a cigarette lighter would be good for the machine. Heat gun is the cleanest way to shrink the shrink wrap. Go PRO and buy one!
  • Cable cutters
  • Screwdrivers
  • Hex keys
  • Small spanners for the frame and propeller nuts. I used pliers instead.
  • Computer with internet access.
  • Multimeter – to check for the soldering work before connecting a real battery.


Tips and Tricks

  • ECS and motors have three wires with no information how to connect them. I soldered the middle wires together and then connected the remaining ones using crocodile clips in a random order. This allowed me to check the rotation direction of the motors before committing the proper joint. I happened to choose wrong order on 3 motors! You will check the rotation direction while setting up the machine in Open Pilot software.
  • It is extremely easy to scratch the carbon fibre with any sharp tools. I have made circles around few bolts where I used pliers instead of a correct spanner.
  • You can get a pack of 75 cable ties in three sizes for a £1 in Poundland. You want to have different sizes, so you would spend £5 in B&Q and £9 in Maplin to get them. And you will end up with many unused ties.
  • If you haven’t soldered the 14awg wires before practice it on a side before starting the real thing. I found this to be the hardest part.
  • Remember you put the shrink wrap before soldering ;)


The build took me two evenings after I have gathered all parts.


And now it is time to fly!


Cancel Virgin Media Broadband after installation

Background: My BT Infinity 2 gives me speeds around 37Mbps only, so I decided to try Virgin’s XXL Broadband 152Mbps. The installation was smooth and first speed check run after installation at noon shown 160Mbps. Wow! As I quickly learnt timing of the test was crucial – the Virgin infrastructure can’t gets congested around 6pm. On most of the days the actual speed around 7pm was between 30 to 80 Mbps, but on Sunday it dropped to 11Mbps. What’s worse the pings were quite unstable, up to a point that response time was noticeable on Ajax based websites (like facebook). Torrent downloads weren’t that great either even during the day – I tried to download Debian .iso and uTorrent never shown more than 50Mbps, so I suspect some kind of traffic management, which I do not like. All in all we decided to cancel Virgin and stay with BT.


Cooling off period vs Virgin Media

Virgin doesn’t want you to cancel and they play tricks to make you give up and stay with them. When you join you get a paper letter titled “Your right to cancel before installation”. The last line of the letter says “If your new Virgin Media service(s) have been installed  within 14 days from the day after you placed your order, you can no longer make a cancellation under this policy.”. I’ve googled a bit and they say the same everywhere.

“Crap” I thought…

But then I remembered that there is a EU rule saying that we have a right to cancel any contract bought on-line in 14 days (more info here), so I gave Virgin a call. The friendly guy on the other side of the phone listened to me and redirected me to “customer relationship specialist” who offered to lower the price to £31 (from £41 – great deal!). I declined and when I used “cooling off period” phrease he agreed to cancel my contract without any fees – basically he agreed to obey a law. The call took less than 10 minutes.

Where’s the catch?

I’m not a lawyer, but I think Virgin’s catch is in the last few words of the letter they send – “under this policy”. Yes, you can’t cancel under this policy, but there’s a law above it that says you can (not under THIS policy though). That’s a nasty trick. Shame on you Virgin for hiding the information!

Can I pay less, please?

£31 Virgin offered was a better price and I thought BT may be flexible as well. I called them and told them I want to stay with them, but Virgin is cheaper. The guy spent 30 seconds clicking and came with a special discount of £6.15 a month – £73.8 a year for a another 10 minute call. Fair deal to me!

Appeal to British folks

I understand this is against your nature, but get the phone, call your providers and demand your rights or at least lower prices!